21st of September

Memories From the Indian Himalayas


After a month in the south of India, in blazing heat and moisture I was in need of an escape. And the best place for me to escape that I know of is the Himalayas. Until recently I had never given it any thought that the Himalayas also spans India – but it turns out it does. So I decided to travel 3500 kilomters north and visit Kashmir – more specifically Ladakh.


I fly into the capital of Ladakh – Leh, at an altitude of 3524 meters. Flying in from Delhi I gain more than 3200 meters of altitude in an about an hour, first time I have tried such a massive altitude gain. But the body seems to manage fine. I spend most of the day doing what I know needs to be done for the body to adjust – resting! I just sit and read my book, and drink massive amounts of tea. I did a bit of rough calculations, and during my first day in Ladakh I consume more than 8 liters of liquid. The climate is extremely dry in Ladakh, so this giant body needs all the hydration it can get its hands on.

Originally my plan was to rest all of the first day due to the altitude gain, but after a while my itchy feet kicked in, so I decide to push the body further and gain a few hundred meter going up the hill checking out Leh castle. From here I view the sunset, and feel a sense of adventure and trill that I have not felt since last year when I climbed Imjse Tse in Nepal. For the first time during this trip I feel “home” somehow. There is just something about the high altitude, the cold fresh air, the simplicity of this life that makes me feel at ease. I smile to myself and take it all in.

After a few days of acclimatisation I travel into the mountains with my guide and spend a little less than a week hiking in this region of the Himalays. Having been sick for a week before going to Ladakh I was a bit worried how my body would take it, but the fresh mountain air seemed to have a healing effect. And all the healthy mountain food was very nourising indeed.

The feel of Ladakh is very different from what I have experienced so far in my other Himalayan adventures in Nepal. Firstly the air is much drier, and the altitude hits harder. Secondly the landscape is just completely different. Very stark – it is like an high altitude dessert. I hardly see any vegetation, just rocks and sand. I quickly realise that it makes no sense to take photographs when there is no clouds in the sky. The photographs simply will be too flat to look at.

We travel light, carrying no sleeping bags – just sleeping at local houses. Some of the bigger cities it almost feels like a hostel experience, but the deeper we get into the mountains the more “local” it gets. Sometimes I just sleep in someones kitchen. A very authentic Ladakhi experience indeed – loved it!

In terms of people, Ladakh feels like nothing I have experienced before in India. The values of people here are simply different. It is all about survival. Some very nice, soft, hardworking people, reminding me in many ways of the Nepalis, but with different facial features. I think there is some similarities between mountain people around the world – this life seem to promote some similar values.

After returning to Leh, the first thing I do is to get myself a hot shower. The next thing I do is to book an oneway ticket for Nepal the next day. There was no way that I could return to the non-Himalyan India after this experience. I need the soft, gentle, kind Nepalis around me. So I head off to Kathmandu to rest, meet friends, do some business, some yoga, and eat some great food. So long India for now!

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Categories:  India Nepal Photography
3rd of November

So Long and Thank you For All the Daal Bhat Nepal


Two amazing months in Nepal. Two very long and great treks in the Everest and Annapurna regions. Countless memories and a lot of really great new friends.

Once again I have enjoyed my time here in Nepal so very much. The people here are just amazing. They might be tiny in terms of physical appearence, but their hearts are huge. I enjoy life here a lot – particular in the mountains! And who can not love Daal Bhat? I am rather sentimental to leave this place. But I take comfort in the fact that I know that I will return for sure. When I will return is uncertain, but I know that next time I go here I want to climb one of the 6000+ summits. I have already made arrangements with a great trekking company. A very nice Swedish climber recommended this place to me. These people know their stuff, and have arranged several Mt. Everest expeditions, so a 6000+ summit definatly fall within their expertise. All I need to do now, is to figure out when I want to return 🙂

Now I am off to the airport to fly to Dhaka, Bangladesh, where I will spend a month. I have no expectations to Bangladesh – I know nothing about it. No plans. All I know is that my friend Zubayer and I are going to purchase a cow tomorrow, and I know that Sunday is going to be rather bad news for the cow… Other than that no plans.

Last post from the rooftop of the world for now. Thank you Nepal, so long and thank you for all the Daal Bhat 🙂

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAtIFiG9ynY

28th of October

Memories from Annapurna


Memories from Annapurna

Here are some photographs from 2 weeks of trekking around the Annapurna mountain range, and crossing one of the worlds highest mountain passes – Thorong La (5416 m).

Weather was amazing, and the views where breathtaking – truely make you feel small in comparision with the nature. Trekking around the entire mountain range you see so much diversity – both in landscape and in cultures.

People where shy of being photographed, and often they told me not to photograph them, so eventually I stopped and settled for only photographing the mountains.

Once again I met some great people, shared some crazy moments with them and made some new friendships.

Leaving Nepal is going to be emotional hard. So many great memories…

22nd of October

Finished the Circuit, and a bit of Paragliding


Came back from the Annapurna Circuit last night. 14 amazing days of trekking – beautiful weather, and amazing company. And no dramas 🙂 Health and fitness was great! Yesterday I got up at 4:30 and climbed Poon Hill together with a couple of very nice Swedish people and a funny Argentinian guy. It was a 500 meters climb to 3200 meters altitude. Poon Hill is the place I visited in 2009, which gave me appetite to go back to visit Nepal again. Back then it was a pretty hard climb for me. Yesterday after an total of 36 days of trekking in Nepal (Everest + Annapurna), it was sooo easy. It was a great feeling – the feeling of physical fitness. I will try my best to keep in shape after this trip 🙂

Unfortunately the views weren’t very good due to bad weather condition. When I was at Poon Hill in 2009 it was an amazing view, which I will never forget. But the remaining part of the circuit was simply stunning – great views! Will make sure to post some photos soon.

Trekking alone was a great experience. The ultimate freedom. And a lot cheaper than purchasing a guide. And with the Annapurna Circuit being such a popular trek, you meet a lot of people along the way. So I defiantly do not regret the decision of going alone!

This morning I went paragliding for an hour around Pokhara. Amazing! A funny feeling in the stomach though. I flew in tandem with a Russian pilot – who used to fly MIG-21 planes. Very nice man. Soooo calm 🙂

Tomorrow I am off back to Kathmandu. My only plan is to relax, eat good food, read some nice books. In general to chill out. After 2 very long treks, I think I have earned it… 🙂

6th of October

Off For a Short 260 km Walk


After 10 days of rest in Kathmandu, I am craving for the mountains again! As much I enjoyed eating fresh fruit, vegetable, salad, meat, and just chilling out – I miss the mountains terribly.

Heading off tomorrow morning at 7 am to begin the Annapurna Circuit walk – a 18ish days 260 km walk, including one of the highest mountain passes in the world – Thourung La (5416m).

This time I go alone with no guide, so I am excited to see how that goes. There should be plenty of people around, so I am sure I will never get completely loney. But perhaps a little lost a few times 🙂

A very nice dude from Israel (Samuel) gave me some really good coffee, so I bought myself a little gas burner so that I can make myself a cup of israelli coffee every now and then. The luxuries of life 😉

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Categories:  Nepal Travel
1st of October

Memories from Everest


Memories from Everest

Here are some photographs from the 3 weeks of trekking from Jiri to Mount Everest base camp and summiting Kalapathar (5545 m).

We faced heavy monsoon rains, fought leeches, endured landslides, earthquakes – the journey was very long, but it was more than worth the dramas and the hard physical work.

The mountains where shy of showing themselves due to the monsoon, but whenever they where revealed – it was an amazing sight.

Met some amazing people, made some great new friends, and got to stare the tallest mountain in the world right into her eyes.

Summiting Kalapathar gives you appetite for more – maybe a 6000+ meter peak next time? 🙂

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Categories:  Nepal Photography Travel
23rd of September

Reached the Summit of Kala Patthar 6 am this morning


This morning we got up at 4.30 and immediatly started the climbing of Kala Patthar.

The climb was not without its dramas – after 15 minutes we passed Mory an american girl that was feeling very bad and couldn’t see clearly.
I asked my guide and a nepali guy to take my flashlight and to follow her down into safety. I waited in the darkness, and once my guide came back we carried on with the accent.

After a while I realized that something was not right with my guide – it was clear that he was now suffering from altitude sickness. I kept insisting that he should go down, but he refused – bless his soul – he is like a nepali father to me, never willing to leave me out of his sight, always taking care of me. After a while and a little bit of raising my voice, I convinced him to go down.

On the way up I saw some people had been spitting blood on the ground(!!). A bit later on Clara a german, was luying on the ground completely knocked out by the cold. Some people had given her chocolate, coffee, and some nepali guys and her boyfriend was rubbing her feet to warm her up – I gave her my down jacket to keep her warm.

After she was warm again, we all continued our accent. And around 6:15 we reached the summit – 5545 meters altitude. The weather was extremely cold – the ground had some snow on the summit. But we where extremely fortunate with the weather.

I cannot describe the feeling – I was so high on adrenalin and happiness.

After that we spend the rest of the day on the road to decend as fast as we could. We are currently at 4270 meters altitude.

My body is very tired and exhausted, but my hearth and soul is full of joy!

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Categories:  Nepal Travel
22nd of September

Reached basecamp today


Just a quick update from Nepal. Reached the basecamp today – after 20 days of hard work. The weather has been terrible all along, and I have only managed to get glimplses of Mt. Everest for a few seconds on few occations. But the journey has been amazing, and every day has been worth it.

Sleeping at 5180m altitude tonight, and getting up tomorrow at 4 am to climb a 5500m summit (Kala Patthar). After that – probably around 11ish we will start our decent.

Cheers from the roof of the world, from a very tired but very happy man 🙂

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Categories:  Nepal Travel
2nd of September

Off the grid for 27 days


This is just a super quick post to let everyone know I am safe and arrived safely in Nepal.

Tomorrow morning 6 am I leave for a 27day trek to Mt. Everest basecamp. The past 2 days have been super busy with preparing for the trek – organzing insurance papers for my guide, buying trekking permit, equipment, medicine – all sorts of logistics. Actually one of the trickier issues has been money – it is not easy to withdraw large amounts of money here in Nepal. I am happy that I brought several credit cards – that makes things a lot easier.

First impressions: Nepal may be one of the absolute poorest countries in the world – but they are still stellar in hospitality!

I can’t believe I am finally here. It is an overwhelming and quite scary feeling. Actually glad I have been busy with logistcs, otherwise I think I would have been to busy overthinking things, missing friends, family and loved ones.

I will be off the grid for 27 days if everything goes accordingly to plan (hope the altitude sickness doesnt get to me).

I am off to bed now, as the adventure starts tomorrow morning 6am.

Greetings from the rooftop of the world 🙂

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Categories:  Nepal Travel